Rebecca Dannock
BSc (Hons), PhD - Zoology and Ecology
Blog 38 – Dec '16 – The Five Day
Journey
The journey to my new life was an interesting one. It began with me starting the packing process a little over a day before I left. Probably not the most ideal timeline considering I was travelling to a camp 4 hours from town, with no conveniences and where I would be living without my own transport. So, if I forgot something, I would be stuck for a month without it. This was probably the first sign that the transition from old to new, from Brisbane to Kafue National Park, would not be as smooth a transition as one would hope. The second sign would have been in Melbourne as I waited for the second flight of my journey. Over 30 minutes after we were scheduled to board, while we sat at the gate, Qantas announced that there would be a delay (a somewhat redundant statement at this point) but that they couldn’t give us any more information. About another 30 minutes later it came to light that our pilot was off sick. The replacement pilot could only arrive three and a half hours after our scheduled leave time. So, with pre-flight checks it meant that we would be five hours late to leave. At this point I realised that, with only one flight from Dubai to Lusaka a day, I had no chance of making it to Zambia on time. I was officially going to be late to work. A whole day late in fact.
Upon arrival in Dubai, I was corralled into a line with hundreds of other sleepy, confused passengers to find out what our fate would be. Most people were shuffled onto new slightly later flights. But, as expected, I had well and truly missed my flight and wouldn’t be going anywhere until the next day. I was given a hotel and transfer voucher and sent on my way. By this point I had accepted the delay and was looking forward to a free mini-holiday in Dubai. So, I sailed to the immigration counter happily providing my passport and chatting with the friendly officer. We chatted back and forth and I was thinking that the Aussie immigration officers could do with his friendliness. But then he became serious and silent. He scanned my passport a second time and then called another officer over, and then another until finally there were six officers talking to each other in hushed voices. The hushed voices were pretty unnecessary though seeing as my knowledge of Arabic barely extends beyond common greetings. The confused and concerned look on my face would have given that away in a flash. After over 10 minutes with them I was directed to the immigration office where my passport was taken from me and more stressful waiting occurred. After a while, my passport returned to my sight (with an immigration officer, not on the passport’s own accord) and was compared to official, sealed documentation that was carefully opened and recorded. I was questioned about my name, nationality and how long I had been a resident of Dubai for. After explaining that I had never even been outside of the airport anywhere in the UAE there was more silence. Followed by the questions being repeated. At this point I started to become worried. Thankfully I still had my mobile phone, so I typed a text message to my poor mother. It started with “Don’t be worried but…”. I held off on sending it as I didn’t want to cause panic, but at the same time I was starting to think that someone should know where I was just in case the friendly, but quiet, officers changed their tune. I had just unlocked my phone ready to finally click send when they called my name and gave me my passport back. Then they directed me into the big wide world. They offered no explanation as to the hold-up, but when I asked what the problem was, they said my passport scanned in as someone else’s name. I am not sure what this means, or if it is even possible but I had my passport back to I got out of there quick smart! I have to say, although this was a fairly intimidating experience and one I would happily live the rest of my days without repeating, the Dubai immigration officers were very friendly and welcoming. This goes against very thing I have ever read about them, so I think travellers should take the “Dubai immigrations officers are cantankerous” commentary with a grain of salt.



Once I was at the hotel I realised the issue with a spontaneous trip to Dubai is that Dubai climate-suitable clothing and plane-suitable clothing are generally not one and the same and my luggage was stuck in the airport. I was fortunate that my plane clothes were conservative enough for Dubai, but not so fortunate that they were somewhat wintery clothes! I was a little weary at heading into town as there were only a few hours before sunset and I knew nothing about Dubai (what to do, how to get around or quite frankly how far it was from the airport hotels). However, fortuitously I ran into a fellow delayed traveller who was also keen to make use of her time in Dubai, but not sure on how. So, Ewelina and I stumbled around the city together (after I did a quick bathroom sink launder of some of my clothes!). Paper map in hand, we decided we could figure it out and make the best of the delay. In under seven hours we managed to travel across the city by train, ride the monorail out to the Palm, photograph some of the cool buildings, watch both sessions of the fountain show (which was much more spectacular than it sounds, trust me) and spend time walking through the world’s largest shopping mall (in search of dinner and the aforementioned fountains). After taking trains, trams and monorails, as well as walking until our feet were sore, we headed home for a quick sleep before returning to the airport early the next morning. I am happy to report that I got back through immigration without any hiccups. And I can now add the UAE to my list of countries visited.
So, I arrived in Lusaka exactly 24 hours after I had planned, but by this point everything seemed to be running smoothly again. Despite the line, I got my business visa without a hitch. Then my bags were already out when I got to the baggage claim area. Finally, the person waiting for me had a sign with my name on it – quite helpful considering I had no idea who was picking me up or even if they were male or female. After a quick shop (fruit, chocolate, wine and phone credit - life’s essentials), Alice who was my ride and is the HR lady for my new company, dropped me at my accommodation for the night - Lilayi. It’s a basic tented camp with a single communal open bathroom/shower. But it also happens to be on the site of an elephant orphanage. I only saw the elephants briefly, and from afar, but they were cute nonetheless. I did however get to spend proper time with, and bottle feed, an orphaned bushbuck named Lola. She is quite possibly the cutest little thing I have ever had a chance to meet.



The next day I waited in the office for 8 hours to be picked up so that I could be taken to my new home. It got so late without my ride showing up, that eventually me and all my earthly possessions were dropped back at Lilayi. For another night of waiting. At this point my head torch broke, my hand luggage bag broke, my Aussie power converter broke and I was ready for a sleep. So after spending my day doing the classic African “hurry up and wait”, I was glad that at least I had Lola to keep me company! The next day, my ride arrived within an hour of the schedule. After about 4 hours of being driven at speeds over 100 km/hr through rain so heavy that I couldn’t see the road in front of me, I safely (albeit shakenly) arrived at my new home. I was there, at the Kafue Conservation Project’s Mukambi Campsite on the edge of the Kafue River. And that is where this story stops and Chapter 2 commences. Until next time…

*Photo taken when visibility wasn’t too bad and I felt it safe enough to open my eyes and take a photo!