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Blog 39 – Jan '17 – New Beginnings, Same Story

With a title like that I’m sure I captured everyone’s attention, after all who doesn’t want to read the same old story? But for those that have persisted this far, I promise it isn’t the same story, despite much of my new life feeling a little like my old life in Etosha. This is despite vast differences between Zambia and Namibia. These differences (in wealth, health, climate and demography, not to mention history) should be more well known. Perhaps then there would be fewer people who still consider Africa to be a single country, all alike. Whereas, Africa is a continent made up of 54 countries boasting somewhere between 1500 and 2000 languages and some of the most diverse regions and people on the planet. I often say I live in Africa, particularly when travelling or meeting new people, it’s a response born out of convenience. That’s because no-one asks where Africa is, unlike Namibia or Zambia, so it makes the conversation less painful and means I don’t have to air-draw a map of Africa, pinpointing my current home country. And I can assure you my air-drawing skills are as lacking as my on-paper-drawing skills. But this is probably a convenience I should avoid, if only to try and improve people’s knowledge on this vast and diverse continent that is not, in fact, just a single country.


So, back to my new life that is a bit ‘same-same, but different’ to my old Etosha-based life. I arrived in Lusaka, at an airport that straightaway told me that there was a vast difference between Namibia and Zambia (at the risk of judging a book by its cover). While Zambia is a much larger country than Namibia (it has over 6 times the population) the airport is not much larger and but it is substantially tattier both inside and out. A clear sign of the wealth difference between the countries. Then I was driven from the airport to fetch the groceries I would need while in Kafue. I excitedly got out of the car upon seeing a Spar Supermarket at the chosen mall. Spar was my favourite supermarket in Namibia, it was the one that stocked the freshest veggies and best selection of “international goods” (i.e. it had soy sauce!). But the sight of wilted veg and mouldy fruit in this Spar, and my inability to find most things on my shopping list, left me a little devastated. All I could think was that if this was the best, then I was in for a shock. Fortunately, over the next couple of weeks, I discovered that while the supermarket chains in Zambia are the same as Namibia (Spar, Pick n Pay and Shoprite), their quality is not. In fact, in Namibia I avoided Shoprite (I went there once and walked out slightly disgusted and completely empty handed), but in Zambia it is one of my favourites and at the same time I don’t think I’ll ever head back to Spar in Zambia unless I am desperate. Same-same, but different.

L to R: Cute baboon baby near camp, wild dogs hunting a waterbuck and kids selling the cheapest mangoes ($1/bowl)


The next step was for me to get to my new home in Kafue National Park where I was about to find out what wasn’t same-same here – the weather! I had been a little panicky before I left Australia as I was expecting 35 degree days and humidity for miles. After all, that was what the weather was in the weeks leading up to my arrival and what Etosha would be like at this time of the year. But, it appears that I brought the rain with me. On the drive to Kafue, the rain was so heavy that I couldn’t see out the windscreen enough to see the where the road stopped and red dirt began. Upon arriving in camp, I realised I was covered in goose-bumps. I couldn’t understand it, how on earth could I be cold? Well, as it turns out, with the rains comes the cooler weather. Apparently, the storm I arrived in was the first real storm of the season. And they haven’t stopped since. My timing was impeccable and my shoes were muddy. I spent much time in that first month rueing the day I didn’t think to buy gumboots, and celebrating the day I invested in a good rain jacket. My next trip to Lusaka was an important one as I treated myself to a pair of $7 gumboots that has served me well ever since. It is now over two months after the start of the rainy season and it has almost rained every day. Real rain. This is the weather that turns your clean clothes mouldy, keeps your sheets damp and turns you into
someone that joyfully celebrates the sun, even when it is veiled by cloud. Because weak sun is better than drenching rain and maybe one day the puddles will dry.
For any of you who are my friends on facebook you will know the flip side to this dreaded weather. You will, I apologise (as least a little bit), have seen numerous sunset photos. To be fair I have restrained myself and perhaps only posted about a third of the photos I wanted to. But, living on the river (surely the only time in my life I will be able to afford ‘riverfront property’), most definitely has its benefits - one of the most stunning sunset views I have ever seen. And it seems each day the sunset gets better. Not only this, but the constant rain means I am surrounded by more green than I could have imagined. The landscape with its red dirt, endless water, and fields of green is about as different to Etosha as another wild place could get.

Just some of the impressive sunset views of Kafue, the right two taken from my tent deck


Although I have traded a tent in Etosha for a tent in Kafue, there are some pretty big differences. Firstly, after a few weeks I was ‘upgraded’ to a tent on the water. The views are, as mentioned above, killer which is a definite improvement on the dust bowl view from my Etosha tent. The view makes the tent seem much nicer even though it is much smaller. The camp is also ‘killer’ because unlike Etosha it is completely unfenced. This means that lions, hippos, elephants and leopards frequently roam the camp while crocodiles patrol the river, a.k.a. my front yard. The first few weeks were quite nerve-wracking as my tent was over 100m to the communal shower block. Night-time bathroom visits got my heart rate to alarming heights! Fortunately, my upgrade not only came with river views but a basic ensuite. The perks of being a manager! So now, once I am back in my tent after dinner, I don’t have to dodge wild animals just to use the bathroom. I just get to, like last night, stay awake all night listening to a hippo party which I cannot see through the pitch black that surrounds my tent. The final difference is that there is no electricity in camp. We have one very small solar panel that we use to power a single camp fridge which is for the ten or so people living/travelling through camp at any one time. So, life is definitely a lot more basic, but at the same time the views are a lot more magical. All in all, I have traded one bush camp for another, one national park for another, and have an eerie sense of déjà vu, but it is still a whole new beginning, with new things to enjoy, and new challenges to conquer (just see the kitchen photo below for one of my new life’s challenges!).

The first tent (far left) I lived in, then the staff tents and beyond that small thatched roof is the area where our bathroom block is.

L: A side view of my tent deck R: My new kitchen a.k.a. challenge – a blog in itself!

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