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Blog 17 - Apr '14 - Town

Before I came to Etosha I thought that I would drive in to town every 2 or 3 weeks to get groceries and so that I wouldn’t go stir crazy in Etosha. It turns out that going to town is my least favourite thing. The towns are incredibly boring. It was for this reason that last year I was stretching my groceries, through careful planning, to last me six weeks. Despite a large proportion of Namibia’s produce coming from other countries, their produce is much fresher than what I am used to back home. Even compared to produce from “fresh produce” markets. Whether they use fewer chemicals, don’t use artificial ripeners or they just get the produce into stores quicker, I don’t know. What I do know is that if I left fruit and veg in my fridge for 6 weeks back home it would not end well but somehow it does here. So, I have become accustomed to not needing to go into town. However this year, having only been in Etosha for five weeks I have had to go back to town twice as well as being in Windhoek on arrival. Unfortunately while the groceries last, other things don’t.

One of the beautiful sunsets of the year, because I always forget to take photos in town...

The first trip was a quick drive into town to get my vehicle rego renewed which took all of 5 minutes once I was at the Namibian Transport (NaTIS) office. But of course the trip took half a day as NaTIS is in Outjo, 120km from camp. The second trip, only a week later was for my bakkie. The load box was tearing as a result of the horrendous Etosha roads and the heavy canopy. Unfortunately, despite weeks of trying to book the panel beater in, I didn’t get a response from them until 4 days after my rego would have expired, so two trips it had to be. When I finally had my car booked in I headed off to Otjiwarongo, a town 200km away. After being assured that I’d have my car back in time to get to Etosha before the sunset shutout I still felt like African time could come into play. So, as I locked up my tent I decided to quickly grab a few select toiletries, pyjamas, a change of clothes and a spare book, just in case. When the panel beater saw firsthand the damage he decided it was a lot tricker to fix than he first anticipated from our conversations and the pictures that I had sent. But, he said that he could still finish in time for me to get back (though, he sounded less sure at that point).

By 9.30am I was in town trying desperately to fill my time. I went into every shop possible, including furniture shops and electronic shops. I tried on a number of shoes that honestly I would probably never buy, but it was better than doing nothing. Marginally. After doing this for what seemed like a few hours I walked across town to the local restaurant to sit for the remainder of the day. Unfortunately “a few hours” of shopping was actually just over an hour. Damn. Five drinks, two meals and entire book later, when I only had 3hrs to get back to camp, I called the panel beater. He said something along the lines of “well, the load box is still off so you’ll stay tonight, you can stay at my sister’s place out of town. She must drive anyway so no need to worry about transport”. Admittedly it seemed a little dodgy. This was a guy I hadn’t met prior to that morning and I had never met his sister. I also didn’t know what “sister’s place” or “out of town” really meant. But it was either that, or walk back into town. The town option involved walking through dodgy areas and trying to find a hotel with an empty room which was likely to run upwards of $70AUD. Also, I had no car. No car means no way to get to dinner. So off I drove with the panel beater’s sister and her young boys who seemed enamoured with me, the weird talking foreigner (as they spoke Afrikaans). “Out of town” meant about 40km out which turned out to be an uncomfortable ride - no-one could speak much English, which I realised after a few failed attempts at conversation. Asking “so how long have you lived in this area” ended up with the lady looking absolutely horrified saying “No, no! This is industry we live away”. It appears that she thought that I was asking her if she lived close to where we were driving through - a dirty, almost abandoned looking industrial area. I tried once more at a conversation but gave up, thankful for my second book. What was more uncomfortable was that I was constantly stared at by her sons. They’d actually given up on staring at me from the back seat and were standing up only centimetres from my face. Not only creepy, it was also a worry - we were driving at about 100km/hr and most oncoming traffic was doing about 140km/hr. I later discovered that their father is a police officer – clearly the law doesn’t start at home here! It was fortunate that they couldn’t speak (or read) English because I fear that the content of my book – a forensic pathology book about rather brutal murders – was perhaps a little above their ages which I guessed at 7 and 9 respectively.

When we eventually stopped, I found out that “sister’s place” meant tented guest farm so I unpacked my very limited possessions into my tent under the watchful eye of the 9 year old and my two roommates for the night (of the gecko kind). I then met my favourite part of family - a beautiful black and grey pooch called Pluto. She clearly wanted to come home with me. She sat on my lap, all 20kgs, and then slept on my feet while I had dinner and maintained one point of contact with me the whole evening until I went to bed. She seemed to have the best grasp on English in the family, or at least was very well aware that I thought she was beautiful and that I enjoyed having a dog around. After all, it was nice to have someone to talk to that I wouldn’t inadvertently offend!

 

The next morning while waiting for the panel beater’s sister (I continue calling her that as I don’t know her name despite introducing myself – that attempt at conversation was ignored) I got to watch a wonderful display of bike riding for half an hour. Apparently the 9 year old knew the words “look, I show you” and wasn’t afraid to say it… a million times. All the while Pluto sat patiently by, getting her last pats in. Then we headed back into the panel beater’s where I sat for 5 hours finishing my second book. By midday I was on the road but first picked up a mountain of groceries for everyone in camp (when one person goes into town every one puts in an order for a few things) and had coffee with a friend that I had met a week earlier in Etosha who was on her way back to Windhoek.

 

All in all it took 32 hours, over 400 km, 2 books and a lot of boredom. Yet somehow the actual cost of fixing the car, which took 2 people about 12 hours, cost a miserly $55AUD! And with food and beer for the night, relatively cheap accommodation and fuel it totalled about $150. So despite being the most boring time I’ve had in the country and a number of miscommunications occurring along the way, it turned out surprisingly well for my stretched budget!

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